ECTS - University of Pisa
Scheda programma d'esame
SHORE PROTECTION
LORENZO CAPPIETTI
Academic year2016/17
CourseENVIRONMENTAL SCIENCE
Code118DD
Credits6
PeriodSemester 2
LanguageItalian

ModulesAreaTypeHoursTeacher(s)
PROTEZIONE DEI LITORALIGEO/05LEZIONI52
LORENZO CAPPIETTI unimap
Programma non disponibile nella lingua selezionata
Learning outcomes
Knowledge
The student who successfully completes the course will have the ability to correctly understand the coastal processes, the causes of shore retreat, the interactions between coastal structures and the coastal processes and the ability to establish mitigation activities.
Assessment criteria of knowledge
During the oral exam the student must be able to demonstrate his/her knowledge of the course material and be able to discuss the reading matter thoughtfully and with propriety of expression.

Methods:

  • Final oral exam

Further information:
oral exam 80%; participation in seminar discussion 20%;

Teaching methods

Delivery: face to face

Learning activities:

  • attending lectures
  • participation in seminar
  • preparation of oral/written report
  • individual study
  • Bibliography search

Attendance: Not mandatory

Teaching methods:

  • Lectures
  • Seminar
Syllabus
Mechanism of wave generation by wind action. Short-term wave analysis, the zero crossing and the frequency domain analysis. The frequency density spectrum, the directional spectrum. The long term wave analysis, the return period, the design waves. Wave propagation from deep to shallow waters, shoaling, refraction, breaking, diffraction, reflection and energy dissipation due to bottom friction and wave breaking. Coastal circulation, the wave-induced currents, the mass transport, undertow, longshore currents. Coastal sediment transport, the mechanisms of sediment entrainments, diffusion and transportation, the long shore transport. Costal morphdynamics, the equilibrium beach profiles, the dept o closure. The control cell and the equation for the long term shoreline evolution. Coastal protection structures, detached breakwaters, groins, artificial nourishments. Rubble mound structures, artificial armor elements.
Bibliography
J William Kamphuis INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING AND MANAGEMENT. World Scientific Leo H. Holthuijsen, Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters, Cambridge University Press.
Updated: 14/11/2016 17:27